Thursday 24 September 2015

Beards of Brick Lane


For some time now beards have been synonymous with East London - hirsuteness being an integral part of the hipster DNA. But with news that in 2015 the beard was dead - http://mashable.com/2015/06/10/yuccie-beards/#r_gkHxIbgGk0 - 99Shoreditch wondered what was happening facial hair-wise on the most East of East London streets – Brick Lane.
 
What we found was that there were plenty of beards to choose from and can therefore conclude (from our less-than-scientific study one random Thursday afternoon) that the beard is categorically and empathically, not dead.

With a sense of relief and enjoying our new profession as pogonologist (a writer on beards), we set off in search of the answers to the conundrum that is the beard.


Beard history is complicated. As a species we have fallen in and out of love with facial hair over the decades. In the 16th and 17th centuries beards were an indicator of virility. In 1535 Henry VIII introduced a beard tax, which meant the rich could demonstrate their wealth and status by growing, and paying for, longer beards. In the 18th century they fell sharply from favour, but were back with a vengeance in the 19th century – Charles Dickens and Abraham Lincoln showing you could be at the top of your game and still sport a tremendous beard.
 
LincolnDickens

 The 20th century is more confusing. The beatniks and hippies appropriated them as a symbol of rejection of societal norms, then some time later the hipsters joined in for the same reasons. After which (and this is where it gets complicated) the beard became so bad it was good – Clooney got one, Princes William and Harry got a couple – even Jeremy Paxman got one. Was the beard a sign of conformity or rejection?
 
Hipster pic: Eggo
Picture: Getty Picture: BBC

 An article in the Royal Society Journal sheds a bit of light on this situation. It seems that beards are seen more positively when they are rare. Conversely, when beards are too common, they are seen as less attractive. So in effect, the beard backlash of the last couple of years is a result of reaching beard saturation point.

http://rsbl.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/10/4/20130958

A brilliant infographic in the Economic Times tells us all we need to know about beards. They were originally grown for intimidation, protection and warmth and were only cut as a punishment. They are grown for religious reasons and had political Nowadays their survey shows that beards make you less cheerful, less caring and less attractive (not so great), but also more respected, of higher status and powerful (definitely not a bad thing).  


https://verkoren.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/facialhair_5008f938b118c.jpeg

Just in case you sport a beard and were thinking about a career change, there are still some professions where a beard is a no-no. The BBC has traditionally been seen to be pogonophobic, firemen and pilots need to be clean-shaven so they can wear oxygen masks and amateur boxers cannot have a blow softened by the protection of a beard. Post-Lincoln very few politicians have risked them, Thatcher couldn’t bear them and it remains to be seen how the Corbyn beard will affect the political landscape. It is worth noting 98% of the Forbes 100 Rich List are clean shaven.

This leads us nicely back to our unscientific and exceedingly random sample on Brick Lane. We identified a mini-trend of a closer, more structured shave and this seems to fit with the new term for the most recent residents of Shoreditch (and Brooklyn) - the YUCCIE, Young Urban Creative. In David Infante’s seeringly honest description of himself, he shows how the offspring of hipsters and yuppies have produced a new creative class that is ‘infected by the conviction that not only do we deserve to pursue our dreams; we should profit from them’. Facial hair is still in evidence, but as a positive choice, rather than negative rejection.

http://mashable.com/2015/06/09/post-hipster-yuccie/.


Laura, a stylist at the barbers in @BarberParlour really does know what she is talking about. She also validated our hypothesis and told us "the trend is less beardy and towards a tighter shave that shows the shape of the face. At men's fashion week we saw that the hair was longer, but shave cleaner. Men are not ready to get rid of their beards, but they do want a cleaner look."

In summary, beards are complex facial communication tools. They undoubtedly represent a rite of passage from boy to manhood and remain for many a symbol of power, religious beliefs, masculinity, individuality and / or defiance. Whether it makes you more or less attractive is an ongoing debate that shows no sign of waning. So we say, regardless of the swinging pendulum of facial politics, it is our view that we should celebrate the beard in all its multi-faceted forms as it is definitely hair to stay. 

Brick Lane Beard Categorisation 

Thanks to all our willing bearded men on Brick Lane. All photos by @shootbernard

Bearly There


Mid Bear
 

Full Grizzly Bear




Further Beard Reading: