In
this second blog piece about iconic Shoreditch streets, we have turned our
attention to the delightful Calvert Ave. If Redchurch Street represents the
young, cool, if ever-so-slightly brash kid on the block, then Calvert Ave is its older,
wiser, yet still fashionable older sibling.
Paragon
Gym is not technically on Calvert Avenue, but is still an excellent place to
start. Stuart Lawson, who set the gym up with his two brothers 18 years ago, is
a martial arts expert with a world championship title under his kickboxing
belt. Paragon is not a traditional gym and there is not a running machine or
weights bench in sight - just mats, punch bags and a boxing ring.
Paragon
keeps people fit in mind and body by specialising in kickboxing and boxing.
What makes this gym really special is its ethos - it is welcoming, inclusive
and everyone is respectful of each other, regardless of their experience. Beefy
black belts get no more special treatment than scrawny novices on their first 6
week course. Stuart is a humble yet inspiring teacher and, as a space to get
fit in, the gym feels both refreshing and reinvigorating.
It helps that clientele is varied – from proper Eastenders, to city
workers, Shoreditch hipsters and artists. Whilst most people are in their 20s,
Stuart still trains his oldest client, who is 58, twice a week. He has seen a
lot of change in his years here, ‘It used
to be an impoverished area where you couldn’t get a cup of decent coffee, now
there’s one on every corner, but it’s gone too far and they are all so
expensive, you need to go to Dalston for a reasonably priced cup!’ @paragongym
We
suspect Stuart has forgotten that right at the other end of Calvert Avenue, on
the corner of Shoreditch High Street is Syd’s - the capital’s oldest coffee
stall. The stall itself was constructed in 1920 after Syd returned from the
war. Originally made from the finest mahogany, very early on it was the first
stall of its kind to have electricity and mains water. Having survived a bomb
blast in the Second World War, Syd’s is still being run by its original
descendants (info from a longer article from Spitalfields Life http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/05/12/syds-coffee-stall-shoreditch-high-st/).
If you are lucky when you visit, Syd’s granddaughter Jane Tothill might be
serving, so you could get a slice of history to go with that coffee.
Opposite
Paper and Cup you can’t miss St Leonard’s church. Dedicated to St Leonard, the
patron saint of prisoners and those who are mentally ill. The church was
designed by George Dance the Elder - a favourite pupil of Christopher Wren, and it
opened in 1740. Tours of the Church, Crypt and Tower are available upon request,
but it is the outside areas that we are particularly partial to. This year has
seen the launch of a Shakespeare-themed garden, created by the gardening
students of the nearby New Hanbury Project (another offshoot of the brilliant Spitalfields
Crypt Trust). It is a lovely space to stop and contemplate life, before diving
back headlong into the chaos and vibrancy of Shoreditch. shoreditchchurch.org.uk
Further
down Calvert Avenue, you get to the Boundary Estate. This was one of the first social housing
schemes built by a local government authority in 1890 and therefore arguably contains
England’s first council houses. Before construction the area was a run-down slum,
full of crime, extreme poverty, disease and dreadful infant mortality rates. One
child in four died before his or her first birthday. Demolition rubble from the
slum was used to build a mound in the middle of Arnold Circus at the centre of the development, with a bandstand
that still stands today.
Just
before the bandstand there is a run of amazing independent shops and boutiques.
Luna
and Curious describes itself as ‘a miniature
department store, offering a wonderful mix of womenswear, childrenswear,
beauty, stationery, homeware, jewellery and accessories’. Like many other passionate independents Luna and Curious believes
in British-made products. It has its their own ceramics label and this year sees
the launch of knitwear, homeware and accessories lines. @lunaandcurious
Adjoining
Luna and Curious is O’Dells, an exclusively male preserve. Proof that men’s fashion,
grooming and accessories do not have to be wholly utilitarian, O’Dells stock is
just as smart as its female couterparts. With items that range from beard oil
to handwoven rugs, each item has an interesting story and clear provenance. Calm
and happy, it is a space perfectly designed for its Shoreditch clientele. @beardwithboy
Leila’s
is a Calvert Ave stalwart. There is a café known for its amazing eggy breakfasts
and a grocer / deli next door. Both of these places are all about proper food.
Leila spends huge time and effort to source and supply the best - everything is
fresh and delicious. This great article in The Gentlewoman describes her
passion and purpose http://thegentlewoman.co.uk/#/library/leila-mcalister. @Leilas_Shop
Charlene
Mullen is a British success story, originally working in fashion she turned her
talents to homeware and is now a successful brand that is stocked in high-end
shops around the world. She has designed crockery for Royal Doulton, but is
best known for her embroidered textiles, which have a contemporary, witty
British feel. The great thing about her shop on Calvert Ave is that her design studio
takes up the back half of the shop. It is so refreshing to see that instead of
hiding away all that creativity, it is on show if you take the time to peek
behind the curtain. @Charlene_Mullen
And
finally if all that shopping has tired you out and you need something amazing
to eat, then Rochelle Canteen is conveniently situated on Arnold Circus. Hidden
behind an unassuming doorway its quintessentially English menu has garnered
respect and rave reviews from foodies and critics alike. Situated in a former
bike shed, the folding doors open onto a lovely garden where some of the salad
and herbs for the menu are grown. Items on the seasonal and ever-changing menu
include Salt
Hake Fritters & Tartare Sauce and Ox Tongue, Lentils & Chard. They have
a close relationship with Leila’s who can supply you with the
wine for your meal,
as the restaurant is not licensed. @Rochellecanteen @AlcidesGauto
The
residents and shopkeepers here exude an understated authenticity and quiet
confidence. So if you are after something a little more reserved, contemplative
and grown up, then it is the place to come.
All photos by @foxyfoxlet
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