History, hotels, homes and (watering) holes

Shoreditch is an area steeped in history.  Over the years it has been a hub for the entertainment, textile, furniture and most recently, tech industries. Ever-changing, it has seen extremes of both wealth and poverty. 

In 1576 times James Burbage built the first purpose-built amphitheatre, where Shakespeare's plays were performed. In 1599 the structure was demolished and the timbers re-used to build the Globe theatre on Bankside. Even into the Victorian era Shoreditch rivalled the West End in terms of entertainment. But it is the Georgian period that has had a particularly profound effect on this particular part of Shoreditch.

Butted up against the gleaming and domineering skyscrapers of the City and round the back of the rather gentrified Spitalfields Market, are a few quiet streets known as Norton Folgate. They include Folgate, Blossom and Fleur De Lis Streets.

Fleur De Lis gives a strong hint to the previous residents, as this was the epicentre of French immigration, where the Hugenots fleeing Louis XIV’s abolition of Protestantism, came to settle. It is thought in total 500,000 refugees (when the word was first introduced into the English language) left France looking for a new life. The largest concentration of these people ended up in this area of Shoreditch. Many of them were wealthy traders and silk weavers and a thriving textile industry was soon established.

In the middle of this fascinating historic location a new hotel has opened that is completely in keeping with the area’s Georgian roots. Batty Langley’s is part of the Hazlitt group of hotels, who own Hazlitt’s in Soho and The Rookery in Clerkenwell. Their unusually sympathetic approach is in contrast to most modern developments. Respectful of both the building and the area, Batty Langley's has taken 5 years to complete. A team of craftspeople and artisans has restored and transformed this Georgian townhouse into a small hotel with just 29 rooms and 4 suites. 

Named after a pre-eminent garden designer in the mid 18th century, Batty (shortened form of Bartholomew) Langley was known for his Gothic style, which is in evidence in the house (even in panels in the lift). The hotel is painted in an original Georgian colour palette and furniture is all sourced from the period. Mod-cons such as flat screen TV’s and minibars have been discreetly hidden behind gilt mirrors and wardrobe doors. The attention to detail is incredible:- shower screens are custom made from copper and brass and in the Earl of Bolingbroke Suite, the throne-like loo is accessed by pulling a secret book on a shelf.

The hotel successfully creates the feeling of being invited into someone’s home. Rooms are named after people who lived locally, there is an honesty bar downstairs and 3,500 books to choose from in the library and other communal spaces. The only things that are not authentic are the bathrooms, as these would have been noticeably lacking in Georgian times, so fabulous Victorian pieces have therefore been sourced. All of this gives the hotel unique character and charm.

Preservation First has been the motto on this build. It is not surprising that it has been completed with this much integrity, as the owners are part of the Spitalfields Trust, a group determined to preserve the character of this unique area. This approach has never been more important as Norton Folgate is under increasing pressure from developers. Although it is a Conservation area, British Land currently want to demolish three quarters of the original buildings to make way for new offices and developments. There is a campaign to save the area, complete with sympathetic plans to redevelop it which can be found at facebook.com/savenortonfolgate or on twitter @SpitalfieldsT.


An even better example of the period is right next door to Batty Langley’s. Dennis Severs’ House is a place frozen in time. Inspired by the history of the area, Dennis Severs, an American fascinated by this period of English history, set about transforming his home into a living museum. Whereas traditional museums simply want to show you what the past was like, Severs’ intention was to truly bring it back to life. Describing it as a ‘still-life drama’ he introduced the sounds and smells of the period and a sense that the occupants had only recently left the room. If you can suspend your disbelief for a few minutes and ‘pass through a frame as to a painting’ then this is a magical way to step out of modern reality and immerse yourself in a living past. 

And if you thought this little street could not get much better, there is a proper old fashioned pub in which to sit and mull over all this history. Thw Water Poet is a complete tardis, this place manages to squeeze in a big bar, pool room, restaurant and even a huge secret garden at the back. 

After this inspiring and industrious period, developments continued into the Victorian era when Shoreditch evolved into a hub for the furniture industry. This history is celebrated in The The Geffrye Museum of the Home, on Kingsland Road. A fascinating walk through the history of our homes and how we have lived in them through the ages - it is well worth a visit.

 


In the early 20th Century the area became rundown and was famous more for its crime and poverty, until more recently, when the expanding tech industry found in Shoreditch a new home on the ‘Silicon Roundabout’. 

Whether you are interested in the past or present, Shoreditch is a fascinating and rewarding place in which to linger.